A Journey to Lofoten Links in Norway — Bravo Whisky Golf

By Bravo Whisky Golf Co Founder Neil S Johnson

Our relationship with this fabled golf course 200km inside the arctic circle started with me spotting one of my friends, Simon wearing one of those woolen hats with a furry bobble on the top when golfing on the West Links at North Berwick.

The beany was a striking blue and white with red lettering “Lofoten” across the middle.

Some photos i took on my i phone- I loved Frode’s message in the Laven restaurant sums up the understated and unpretentious nature of Lofoten.

“Where did you get that from?” I asked

“ Lofoten” said Simon unhelpfully

“Where’s that?” I said

“It’s an Island archipelago in the North of Norway”

“Wow”- I said

“Can you play golf there?”

“Yes” said Simon “For some of the year”

Simon then recounted the details of his adventure involving his friend (a pilot with a plane) and a journey to one of the most spectacular and scenic golfing destinations in the world, from that point on i was infatuated, i simply had to experience this place for myself- but how?- i didn't have a friend with a spare plane- and certainly not one that was willing to fly me across the North Sea any time soon.

Bravo whisky Golf’s guests are discerning and knowledgeable and it was not long however before one of them asked us about Lofoten ( http://lofotenlinks.no/golf/?lang=en) which gave us the perfect excuse to plan a reconnaissance trip.

In order for us to demonstrate the value of a private charter flight to an airfield within close proximity to Lofoten , I decided to take the much longer scheduled aircraft alternative. On the way out the journey took nearly 20 hrs 3 flights and a 50 min hire car journey. I guess it's not a problem if time is not pressing and you don’t mind hanging about airports.

If you don’t and most of our guests don’t have luxury of plentiful time, then the circa 4 hour charter option (from Edinburgh but can be arranged from anywhere in Europe) is the way to travel.

Arriving late at night i was tired after the long journey and I headed straight to the log cabin for a good sleep.

Lifting the blinds to the outside world in the morning- i was greeted by a blue sky day with mist lifting and a most spectacular landscape of sea and mountains unfolding.

I had arranged to meet the owner Frode at the golf club for some breakfast in the morning. The first thing Frode asked was “did you see the incredible light show last night???”

“What light show??” was my response

“The Northern lights the Aurora Borealis”

“No”

“Did you not look up in the sky??”

“Must not have- was a bit tired and went straight to bed”

It was great to chat and get to know Frode who’s tenacity and perseverance to realise the vision of his Grandfather to build the most northern links golf course, is seriously impressive.

Frode’s plans for Lofoten are far from realised. He explained that there are ambitious plans to create a hotel and Clubhouse near the 1st tee but for the moment the Clubhouse is situated within a semi permanent but very comfortable series of converted shipping containers.

Itching to get on the golf course, Frode had teed me up to play with Jerry Mulvihill the course manager a Irishman and Ballybunion member that has transformed the links during the nearly 7 years he has been at the Lofoten, creating a course that is is now consistently quoted as being the finest in Norway and one of the best in Continental Europe. Jerry also knows his way around and in our friendly match he was a comfortable 3/2 victor.

Other than the jaw dropping scenery, what i liked about Lofoten Links was that it is not a place to pull out the driver automatically. The holes have been carefully crafted, some right next to the water and others surrounded by giant boulders further away from the coastline. This is a course you cannot overpower easily and a premium on course management and accuracy is required. Jerry was keen to give me the opportunity to avenge my defeat the following morning but the result was the same albeit a tighter 2/1 defeat. I was getting to know the course a little, losing less balls off the tee and loving the course more with each round.

Off the golf course there is plenty to do- my 4 top tips are as follows-

Visit Henningsvaer

I used my hire car to get me to and from this beautiful town about 30 mins from Lofoten Links. The drive is in itself an experience, crossing steeply contoured bridges and skirting the mountains. On arrival there is plenty to do and see. I visited a craft shop that made hand blown glass artifacts from coloured glassware to necklaces. The same shop also had local pottery for sale as well as an exhibition of photography inspired by the immediate environment. If there are a few of you it is also fun to have a kick around on the football pitch which arguably must have the most dramatic setting for the game in the world.

Henningsvaer-The most majestic sighting for a football pitch

For foodies there are also plenty of cafes and seafood restaurants serving local delicacies like Sea Urchins, Kelp and Crab. If the weather is good a rib adventure can be arranged to a small island where you can watch Sea Eagles hover while you enjoy a barbeque with your friends. The rib can also be hired to take you back in style to Lofoten Links.

Pony Trekking

Frode will openly confess he loves his Icelandic Ponies more than the golf course and it is not difficult to see why. The ponies here are a major attraction and people travel from far and wide to experience them. These tough little animals all come with their own name and personality.

Depending on your riding ability you will be allocated your charachterfull pony for the midnight trek which normally lasts about 90mins. Being late September i was in for a treat as the Northern Lights were in full multicolour above us dancing around the mountains while we trotted along one of the beaches.

It is not an evening I will forget easily, a natural phenomenon and man (nearly) in harmony with his beast.

Climb the Laven

Cross the field where the ponies live and start the accent of the Laven- if you move swiftly you can reach the summit in a heart thumping 45mins. Trying to find words to describe the view from the top are difficult, but trust me it is worth the effort to do this- i suggest in the morning before breakfast.

Dinner in the Laven Restaurant

With communal tables, a piano, friendly service and delicious food what is not to like. Frode invited me to the end of season staff party which combined all the elements of his operation from food and beverage, pony handlers and golf course attendants and managers. We all ended up on the beach together where they built a fire with a moat around it so as the tide came in we could retreat and watch the sea surround the fire as if suspended in water.

For supper I ate the catch of the day with steamed radish (who knew of it?) broccoli, browned soybutter, yellow beets and baby potato which was tasty and flavoursome and followed it with an apple crumble, compote, oats and whipped cream.

What struck me in this incredible place, apart from the dramatic scenery was the warmth of the welcome i received from everyone i met, do not expect a 5 star luxury resort, but this place is a natural wonder simply authentic and unpretentious. I can’t wait to go back.